The Journey's End

The scenery has changed dramatically; my legs no longer ache from much needed rest; and instead of moving from one place to another, each and every day, I find myself a bit more grounded, enjoying the stillness around me. While I sit here reflecting on this trip, sipping my morning coffee, I wonder how I've changed and what exactly it was that created this change inside me. My legs are strong, hands calloused, and determination to ride long days unwavering. And yet what is it that actually makes me a better person, a stronger individual? Is it as simple as the 2,800 miles I biked, or the countless friendships that wielded themselves throughout the trip, or just the day to day spent under nature's grand cathedral? I don't really know if I can put a finger on it quite yet and maybe I never will exactly. That being said I walk around with even a bigger smile on my face and appreciation for what and who is around me.

If there is one thing that is evident to me it is this: everyone should spend some time riding around on a bike with no agenda, either at home or abroad, expand their lungs, sweat profusely, tire their legs and their arms to the point of exhaustion, and most importantly remember to drink in the surroundings with each breathe. That much I do know.

Now cruising on 4 wheels

Picture frames in the wild, a gannet colony, and oversized trees all made possible via our new ride. After trading in our bicycles for a new Ford hatchback, that conveniently needed to be brought down to Auckland from Whangarei, we were able to explore a few more areas on the North Island. We first headed east out to the Whangaparaoa Peninsula where we planned on camping at Shakespear Regional Park. That plan never materialized after numerous attempts by Brian to try and crack the combo on the lock at the campsites entrance. I even tried to use my telephoto lens to give us a closer look, but that of course didn't work either. So we spent the night on the bluff just outside of the park under the stars with the waves crashing in on Army Bay below. Fantastic night really. We spent the following day hitching a ride out to Tiritiri Island, a reclamation project by the Dept. of Conservation, to re-establish a native bird population along with a million or so planted native trees and shrubs. We circumnavigated the island and somehow managed to keep clear of the other 148 people that took the ferry over with us. We arrived back at Matakatia Bay in the early afternoon and headed over to the west coast. Our first stop was Murawai Beach, home to one of the island's largest gannet colonies during the breeding season. Old lava flows and rock formations dot the coastline, making up for the beautiful miles of black sand. From Murawai we headed down island to Piha where we camped. Piha is a small town nestled into the valley which shares its name. A small community which boasts some of the most fantastic surfing outside of Auckland. We left Piha to next day and sadly made our way into Auckland. Auckland's skyline couldn't have differed much from that of Seattle. It was almost like coming home, although neither one of us wanted to let the journey end. Auckland wasn't without it's own allure. Our last day in town was spent at the Auckland Museum. The Pacific Island communities and Maori exhibits were expansive collections in both depth and breath; while the natural history section covering New Zealand's origins and context to the land, shorelines and oceans helped to sum up everything I had seen and experienced. All in all it was hard to believe that there was actually and end to all of this. I flew out the following morning at 6:30am. One last post to come later with thoughts and reflections.

The Northland and its Coast

We departed the Coromandel via ferry, spent the night in Auckland and then hopped on a bus for a 7 hour ride to the top of the North Island. Two buses later and I with a broken front rack we found our selves in Kaitaia. Brian was quickly off to a hardware store to find something that might work. I was going nowhere and took this beautiful picture of a giant lawn bowler or maybe it's depicting the story of the thief and a his enormous pearl (story yet to be made up and written by me). Either way it wasn't too long before Brian was back and the problem fixed. Later that day we rode up towards Cape Karikari and camped at Maitai Bay, a gorgeous area which most the pictures above are from. We set out the following day for Russell, a quiet and romantic town, according to the I-center lady who thought we were "together". It was a beautiful 75 miles and another small ferry ride into the Bay of Islands. From Russell we took the back roads around the northwestern part of the island sticking to the coast. Instead of the short day of riding that we had anticipated, our route took us up and down and in and out and up and down again about a thousand times, and that might be a generous estimate. It was exhaustive work and a leg destroyer to say the least. 62 miles later we wound up in the town of Whangarei and only 60 miles north of Auckland. With only 3 days until our flight, we opted for a more enjoyable end to our trip, rather than a stressful day or two of cycling with half the motorists of New Zealand on the busiest part of the freeway. And so in deconstructing our bikes and giving our butts some much needed rest, we set out to rent a car for the last couple of days.

The Coromandel Peninsula

The ride into the Coromandel was a breath of fresh air. While the roads narrowed even further, the traffic was less of an issue. Small inlets, wide beach expanses and a grueling mountain range that ran down the middle of the peninsula were all part of the passing scenery. The ride from the east side to the west presented a long ascent up Whangapoua Hill, which was more like a small mountain. 1200 feet of climbing in just 3km. Add over 90 degrees of radiant sunshine and sweat racing out of your pores so fast that holding on to your bike made you look like a three year old learning to ride for the first time...it makes for an incredibly relaxing time. That being said you've got to be thankful for the pot smokin' hippies at the top of the road. I was merely commenting on how this experience (the fact that I made it up to the top and was now off my bike for a few minutes) would be more enjoyable with a nice cold beer in hand. Well they had a few in a cooler and no sooner offered one to Brian and I. They were my new best friends. A half hour later we made the steep descent into the town of Coromandel, where we formulated our plans for the final leg of our trip, the Northland. Pics: 1. Bikes taking a brief rest overlooking Mercury Bay. 2. Harakeke (flax) in flower. 3. Punching through the surf at Waihi Beach
4. Waihi Beach reflection

Tongorira Crossing

We hitch hiked out of town and were picked up after 2km. We were 3 to start, but after convincing the Brazilian that it would be better for her to hitch alone we were two. It worked. She drove by waving at us, not in passing, but in to hurry up and get in the car. We made the 75km ride with Chris, a local hiking guide to our destination. We gleaned as much as we could and were dropped off at the trail head, heading in the opposite direction of most of the tourists to avoid the masses. It was fantastic. The 20km hike took us through lush Beech and Manuka trees up to sub-alpine brush to moon-like landscapes with aqua-marine pools. The hike wound us through three active volcanoes; twice voted as an International Heritage Site. The walk was fantastic, the views breath taking and scenery quite outer worldly. We finished the day getting by-passed from the dirt parking lot as everyone thought more of dinner and zooming past us like we didn't exist instead of giving us a lift. After 6km down the dirt road a good ol' Kiwi picked us up and drove us part of the way out and then down the highway. Hopping out we found another ride with a farmer towing a baling device. He had one leg, well two, one prosthetic and one real. I sat shotgun and watched in awe and admiration as he drove with his real left leg, fake right leg tucked nicely between the car door and his seat. It was something and a bit longer story, but we made it back to town safely and plan on leaving tomorrow for Rotorua.

Beyond Wellington

Just made it to Taupo early this morning. Largest lake in the Southern Hemisphere shares its name. Spent the last 5 days riding from Wellington with the first 3 all on back roads out to the east coast and Hawke Bay. Probably some of the best riding so far with little to no traffic and undulating farm roads for 200km. Just out of Wellington we rode the Rumatakua Rail Trail, pictured above circa 1905 or some time ago. Was great riding until the end which was so rocky it gave me a pinch flat. Thought after the previous round of off piste riding and no flats this would be similar, but alas it all caught up to me. Just out of there we spent the night in the middle of no where for New Year's eve. All I have for that is a somewhat decent shot of the moon, beautiful as it was Brian and I didn't really feel like kissing each other to ring in the new year. No mistletoe I suppose. After reaching Napier and our camping spot on the beach in Hawke Bay we rode back to the thriving little town of Napier for some dinner. The cook stove had been getting quite a work out, so we decided it needed a rest night. The following day we left heading back west in to the the mountains. It was a brutal day, probably the second hardest day since I've been here. Over 5000 feet of elevation, 90 degree heat and topped off with a severe headwind. Not much else to say about that. One gets tired of looking down at the chip-sealed road and the white stripe that marks the foot wide shoulder. 45 minutes later we hunkered down at the half way point. The chap who owned the place offered to give us a ride in this morning which we gladly excepted. More wind and a driving rain this morning made us glad to be off the bikes. Tomorrow we head down south to hike the volcanoes. Hope the weather is a bit better. Other pics: Brian and I departing Wellington. Fruit stand stop on the way out of Hawke Bay.

Brave, crazy or just plain dumb.....

Pick any one of those three to characterize my ambition to ride dirt, rocks and roots with a semi-loaded bike and skinny slicks for tires. I had some idea of what I was getting into, but a cracked rib on the first day wasn't part of the plan. Yes, a mountain bike trail should be left to mountain bikes, not touring ones. I'll note that for future rides. I actually was able to ride a surprising amount of the Queen Charlotte Track, say 85% of the 51km. The other 15% was either spent pushing, pulling or lugging my bike up the unavoidable and unridable hills or laying on the ground after I ate the good stuff. That being said, I survived and am only a little worse for wear. More damaging that what my body suffered was my childhood vision of Ol' St. Nick. I've always been told he existed, but when I ran across two of them, my faith in the guy was truly shattered. Anyhow, I'm back in Picton, again, and will take an early ferry tomorrow for the north island. It'll be nice to be on the pavement again, at least for the first few miles. Then I'll be having thoughts as to when the next break from the bike will be. Happy New Year's to all of you.