Thursday, November 12, 2009
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
The wind is always slapping me in the face
I think it goes without saying, especially for those who cycle, that there is never a time when the wind is at your back. Left Gore Bay, camping right above the beach, in a downpour. The first 50 miles were brutal, with the wind more demoralizing than ever. We rode out the storm, or it blew past us, leaving us with the last 30 miles of sunshine and less wind down into Christchurch. We'll stay here for a few days with some friends of friends and then head down to Dunedin on Saturday.
The nutshell: Left Nelson last Thursday to St. Arnaud (hellish hill climbing), where we camped at a beautiful alpine lake. On to Blenheim the next day (long day 82 mi. and more punishing wind). Took the next day off so to speak and rode around 30 mi. to various wineries in the famous Marlborough region. Zipped out to Hanmer Springs for a day of rest and hit the hotsprings (small mountain town, much like Durango). In Kaikura the following day for some whale/dolphin watching, but was canceled due to inclimate weather. Rode 50 miles down to Gore Bay and then on into Christchurch.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
50 miles and I'm Abel Tasman's new best friend
Just returned to Nelson after a fantastic ride up along the northeastern coast, wine country, of the Tasman Sea. Camped, kayaked and then camped again up against the Abel Tasman National Park. Spent yesterday paddling around Fisherman and Adele Island, tramping up and over one of the ridges and down to Torrent Bay, then kayaking back along a handful of the golden beaches preceeding the town of Marahau. Saw New Zealand sea lions, penquins, oystercatchers and herons. Lucked out on the weather once again. Saw an amazing moon rise from the camp shore, large, bold and bright yellow as it came over Adele Island casting its glow over the sea. Seemed like you could reach out and grab it. Off for Kaikoura along the eastcoast on a long early ride tomorrow. Should be there in three days or so.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Loving the south island
Took the ferry from Wellington to Picton just a few days ago. Had one of the nicest rides thus far from the port to Pelorus Bridge where we camped next to the Pelorus River, about a 35 mile ride. Prior to starting though we stopped at a Dutch bakkerij for some good eating. We started to climb immediately out of town. It was rolling and winding all along the northern coast, taking us in and out of small bays. Stopped in Havelock and ate two bowls of the world's best green mussels, half of them steamed and the other grilled on the half-shell. Fantastic.
Day two, on the way over to Nelson, we had to extremely long climbs, the Rai Valley and Whangamoa Saddles. With just under 40 more miles behind us we rode into Nelson. We stopped at a wonderful pub called the Sprig and Fern Tavern. A fish and chips place was next door and brought us our lunch while we enjoyed a bit of relaxation and sun. We finished off the days ride with a gut wrenching climb up to J and Rose's house.
A great place to rest some weary bones, their house sits atop a hill overlooking Tasmen Bay; the view is spectacular. It would be easy to call this town home....hmmm. Anyhow, J, Rose and their son Tas have been the most gracious of hosts. Veggie lasagna and cold beer awaited us when we first arrived. Tas was booted from his room and now is sleeping on the couch, which I don't think he minds all too much actually. The next morning we all set out on a hike circumnavigating one of the valleys sitting behind Nelson. Again, beautiful. After hiking for 3 hours and reaching the top the idea was to then run the final 4km down an old logging road. We did, I did and now my knees are hating me. Thought last nights rest would take care of it, but hopefully that'll work itself out on today's ride. Heading out to the Abel Tasman National Park for a couple nights of camping and a day of kayaking. Hope to update again soon.
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
I have permanent white knuckles
Rode from Karamu, near Hamilton, all the way to Mokau on the western coast just two days ago. This was our longest day with over 3000 ft. in elev. gain, which seems to be every day, and 92 miles behind us. The last 35 miles were in the rain. Rough day and tiring. Not to mention that the backpacker's hostel was closed indefinitely. We stayed in a small hotel called the Whitebait, which is named after the fish they catch to fry up in the river adjacent to them. The room was more like a jail cell; no heat etc, etc, but it was dry and a place to rest my head.
As far as the ride goes, well is was beautiful as one would expect, but with all the hills/mnts. you lose the shoulder with every ascent, and sometimes the descent as well. I've already made mention to the speed at which everyone travels, breakneck; well it becomes a bit crazy when you have tripple tractor trailers zipping past you at 120km and 2 feet to your left, with all their wind pushing you around on the descent with no shoulder and the natural wind having its way with you. Let's just say your thankful every time you reach the valley floor. Even so, I still feel safe and am pretty happy to be down here on my bike.
The last couple of days were spent riding down into New Plymouth, 52 mi. and now Stratford, our shortest day of 2o some odd miles. The weather is supposed to take a nasty turn for the worse for the next bit and while the rain wasn't much fun, the snow will be even worse. I know, toughen up. But instead of holing up and waiting it out we're looking into taking a bus down to Wellington in order to spend some significant time in the wine/mountain country.
Thanks everyone for the birthday wishes. After a semi-long day riding we had a nice dinner in town and threw back a few beers. What a great way to spend the day. Picture update: lame, not sure if I'll get any on this, has taken over 10 mins. just to upload one, and the one you're now getting is only of a goat :(
Saturday, October 24, 2009
I think "Zea" is Maori for hilly
Well, how to sum up the last three days? New Zealand is everything that everyone says it is. The landscape is simply amazing and beautiful and the people are as friendly as they come. I just now accessed the internet and these posting may be fewer and farther apart than I had hoped, but I'll do my best.
After touching down in Auckland and gathering the goods, we assembled our bikes and hit the road. It was an ambitious start, we rode 60 miles to Glen Murray where we stayed in a backpacker's hostel. The scenery was unlike anything I've ever laid eyes upon; the colors were more vibrant than an acid induced kaleidoscope show. Not that I know what that's like, but I can imagine. The farms were rolling and never ending. There were mostly sheep, some cattle, a lot of wild turkeys, more sheep and a few dead hedgehogs to boot.
From Glen Murray we travelled to Raglan. A small artsy/surfing community roughly 42 miles westish. I nice ride until we got to the main highway leading to the town. The road was decent, but it's a holiday out here this weekend, so there were a lot of folks heading in our same general direction. That's not a bad thing in it's own right, but New Zealander's think they're on the Autobahn, on any road. A bit frightening to say the least. For dinner we had the famous fish, chips and beer. The chips were great, the fish turned out to be a entirely fried, head to tail, flounder and the beer was zesty. An interesting meal and not all that satisfying. Oh well.
Today we left and made our way towards Hamilton. It was only a 24 mi. ride, but what started out as a beautiful road, turned into a gravelly dirt/treacherous 8 miles of possible carnage. My body is extremely sore just from trying to keep the bike upright. I only wrecked once and was going slow enough not to draw blood. I'm sure it was beautiful around us, but it was hard to pay attention when all you could stare at and look for was a rut in the road to stay in. Glad it's over. We're now in another backpacker's hostel and about to eat some pasta. Hope to make a long day out of tomorrow, but we'll see; the weather is about to turn. Until next time. Pics will have to wait for another computer, sorry.
After touching down in Auckland and gathering the goods, we assembled our bikes and hit the road. It was an ambitious start, we rode 60 miles to Glen Murray where we stayed in a backpacker's hostel. The scenery was unlike anything I've ever laid eyes upon; the colors were more vibrant than an acid induced kaleidoscope show. Not that I know what that's like, but I can imagine. The farms were rolling and never ending. There were mostly sheep, some cattle, a lot of wild turkeys, more sheep and a few dead hedgehogs to boot.
From Glen Murray we travelled to Raglan. A small artsy/surfing community roughly 42 miles westish. I nice ride until we got to the main highway leading to the town. The road was decent, but it's a holiday out here this weekend, so there were a lot of folks heading in our same general direction. That's not a bad thing in it's own right, but New Zealander's think they're on the Autobahn, on any road. A bit frightening to say the least. For dinner we had the famous fish, chips and beer. The chips were great, the fish turned out to be a entirely fried, head to tail, flounder and the beer was zesty. An interesting meal and not all that satisfying. Oh well.
Today we left and made our way towards Hamilton. It was only a 24 mi. ride, but what started out as a beautiful road, turned into a gravelly dirt/treacherous 8 miles of possible carnage. My body is extremely sore just from trying to keep the bike upright. I only wrecked once and was going slow enough not to draw blood. I'm sure it was beautiful around us, but it was hard to pay attention when all you could stare at and look for was a rut in the road to stay in. Glad it's over. We're now in another backpacker's hostel and about to eat some pasta. Hope to make a long day out of tomorrow, but we'll see; the weather is about to turn. Until next time. Pics will have to wait for another computer, sorry.
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