The Coromandel Peninsula

The ride into the Coromandel was a breath of fresh air. While the roads narrowed even further, the traffic was less of an issue. Small inlets, wide beach expanses and a grueling mountain range that ran down the middle of the peninsula were all part of the passing scenery. The ride from the east side to the west presented a long ascent up Whangapoua Hill, which was more like a small mountain. 1200 feet of climbing in just 3km. Add over 90 degrees of radiant sunshine and sweat racing out of your pores so fast that holding on to your bike made you look like a three year old learning to ride for the first time...it makes for an incredibly relaxing time. That being said you've got to be thankful for the pot smokin' hippies at the top of the road. I was merely commenting on how this experience (the fact that I made it up to the top and was now off my bike for a few minutes) would be more enjoyable with a nice cold beer in hand. Well they had a few in a cooler and no sooner offered one to Brian and I. They were my new best friends. A half hour later we made the steep descent into the town of Coromandel, where we formulated our plans for the final leg of our trip, the Northland. Pics: 1. Bikes taking a brief rest overlooking Mercury Bay. 2. Harakeke (flax) in flower. 3. Punching through the surf at Waihi Beach
4. Waihi Beach reflection

Tongorira Crossing

We hitch hiked out of town and were picked up after 2km. We were 3 to start, but after convincing the Brazilian that it would be better for her to hitch alone we were two. It worked. She drove by waving at us, not in passing, but in to hurry up and get in the car. We made the 75km ride with Chris, a local hiking guide to our destination. We gleaned as much as we could and were dropped off at the trail head, heading in the opposite direction of most of the tourists to avoid the masses. It was fantastic. The 20km hike took us through lush Beech and Manuka trees up to sub-alpine brush to moon-like landscapes with aqua-marine pools. The hike wound us through three active volcanoes; twice voted as an International Heritage Site. The walk was fantastic, the views breath taking and scenery quite outer worldly. We finished the day getting by-passed from the dirt parking lot as everyone thought more of dinner and zooming past us like we didn't exist instead of giving us a lift. After 6km down the dirt road a good ol' Kiwi picked us up and drove us part of the way out and then down the highway. Hopping out we found another ride with a farmer towing a baling device. He had one leg, well two, one prosthetic and one real. I sat shotgun and watched in awe and admiration as he drove with his real left leg, fake right leg tucked nicely between the car door and his seat. It was something and a bit longer story, but we made it back to town safely and plan on leaving tomorrow for Rotorua.

Beyond Wellington

Just made it to Taupo early this morning. Largest lake in the Southern Hemisphere shares its name. Spent the last 5 days riding from Wellington with the first 3 all on back roads out to the east coast and Hawke Bay. Probably some of the best riding so far with little to no traffic and undulating farm roads for 200km. Just out of Wellington we rode the Rumatakua Rail Trail, pictured above circa 1905 or some time ago. Was great riding until the end which was so rocky it gave me a pinch flat. Thought after the previous round of off piste riding and no flats this would be similar, but alas it all caught up to me. Just out of there we spent the night in the middle of no where for New Year's eve. All I have for that is a somewhat decent shot of the moon, beautiful as it was Brian and I didn't really feel like kissing each other to ring in the new year. No mistletoe I suppose. After reaching Napier and our camping spot on the beach in Hawke Bay we rode back to the thriving little town of Napier for some dinner. The cook stove had been getting quite a work out, so we decided it needed a rest night. The following day we left heading back west in to the the mountains. It was a brutal day, probably the second hardest day since I've been here. Over 5000 feet of elevation, 90 degree heat and topped off with a severe headwind. Not much else to say about that. One gets tired of looking down at the chip-sealed road and the white stripe that marks the foot wide shoulder. 45 minutes later we hunkered down at the half way point. The chap who owned the place offered to give us a ride in this morning which we gladly excepted. More wind and a driving rain this morning made us glad to be off the bikes. Tomorrow we head down south to hike the volcanoes. Hope the weather is a bit better. Other pics: Brian and I departing Wellington. Fruit stand stop on the way out of Hawke Bay.

Brave, crazy or just plain dumb.....

Pick any one of those three to characterize my ambition to ride dirt, rocks and roots with a semi-loaded bike and skinny slicks for tires. I had some idea of what I was getting into, but a cracked rib on the first day wasn't part of the plan. Yes, a mountain bike trail should be left to mountain bikes, not touring ones. I'll note that for future rides. I actually was able to ride a surprising amount of the Queen Charlotte Track, say 85% of the 51km. The other 15% was either spent pushing, pulling or lugging my bike up the unavoidable and unridable hills or laying on the ground after I ate the good stuff. That being said, I survived and am only a little worse for wear. More damaging that what my body suffered was my childhood vision of Ol' St. Nick. I've always been told he existed, but when I ran across two of them, my faith in the guy was truly shattered. Anyhow, I'm back in Picton, again, and will take an early ferry tomorrow for the north island. It'll be nice to be on the pavement again, at least for the first few miles. Then I'll be having thoughts as to when the next break from the bike will be. Happy New Year's to all of you.

Top of the South Island

Just got up to Picton after 10 days or so on the road. I left good weather in Wanaka and hit up Mt. Cook where I camped in the most unimaginable storm of my life. Sustained winds at 90kph and rainfall over 60cm in a 24hr period. My tent finally leaked which I suppose shouldn't have been a surprise considering. After leaving that beautiful mountainous region that I couldn't see I made my way back over to Chch. where I spent a few days with some friends that I met the first go around over there. Headed up the coast and camped all along the way. Had fairly good weather all the way to where I am now. Tomorrow I head up into the Marlborough Sound, where a water taxi will drop my bike and I off for a 6 day journey back on single track. Hope the bike holds up....and if not and I end up having to push it uphill well, I'll just curse myself for thinking this was a good idea. Merry Christmas everyone. Cheers!! Pics: mural in Kaikura, top of Mt. Roy hike outside of Wanaka, one of 4 different painted bikes on the side of a second hand store Banks Peninsula, me thinking I can still climb underhangs, some beach camp spot 25km outside of Blenheim.

Six days & six hundred kilometers

I'm back in Wanaka having just completed the west coast of the South Island in its entirety. My body needs a bit of a break before I decide what and where is next.

1. My bike (funny I write it that way...like it's someone else's bike) at the top of Haast Pass on the boarder between Otago and Westland. 2. Franz Josef glacier, wonky angle I know. 3. Some steps bolted to the side of a rock, trail leading to F. J. viewpoint. 4. Somewhere along the road leading into Franz Josef.

Broken down....I need a chain whip

I can thank this picture to the wonderful people I ate dinner with the night before. They of course passed me on the road to see if there was anything they could do to help. Packing me up into their car was sadly not an option. Somewhere south of Punakaiki I heard a loud bang and was unsure of its origin until I heard the tick, tick, tick coming from my rear wheel. A broken spoke. Glad I have a couple of spare ones with which I could do nothing with in the middle of nowhere. I needed a chain whip, which of course I wasn't carrying. So I wound the spoke around one of its neighbors and set off down the road to Greymouth. It wasn't the end of the world, just a two hour delay in a town not really worth mentioning or visiting for that matter. However, the guy at the bike shop was extremely nice and willing to get on it and get me on my way.

I've ridden 180 miles since getting dropped off in Westport. I arrived a day and a half ago in Franz Josef - a place where the mountains reach the sky and the glaciers run towards the Tasman Sea. Today was my day off and I hiked 12ish miles from town to gain an overhead perspective of the massive glacier. Always an impressive view. As soon as I can upload pics again I'll try and put one up. I'm heading out of town tomorrow and not sure how far I'll get, but with the three enormous climbs I have between here and Fox Glacier I may only make it the 21km to get there. We'll see.